DIY high-end speaker cable
Time required: about 30 minutes … 4 hours depending on how well insulation from the wires can be removed.
High-end speaker cables do not have to be expensive. You can assemble a very good cable from relatively low-cost ribbon cable that achieves technical parameters surpassing even the most high-end cables. 
In my case I used a cable in which the wires were already twisted together in pairs. This reduces the very low inductance even more.
The cable reel I bought for only a few € at ebay.
|Advantages of these cables||Disadvantages|
Excellent electrical values:
|Withstand voltage is not so high, therefore not suitable for high powers
Fabrication is time-consuming (about 2 hours)
Technical data of the cable
Here is an estimation because lack of high-resolution measurement technique.
Type of ribbon cable: Hitachi 20048 from Cable Hitachi Manchester
|Property||Value per lead||Value in parallel
|Value with n = 34||Comparative data
of Professional cable H*S
|Number of leads||34 × AWG 7/40||2×3 strands of Teflon|
|Material||Copper, tin plated||OFC copper 2 × 2,85 mm2|
|Resistance||0,6 mOhm/m||divides by n/2||~0,037 mOhm/m||14,2 mOhm/m|
|divides by n||~18 nH/m||164 nH/m|
|Capacity||41 pF/m||multiplies by n||1,4 nF/m||466,0 pF/m|
|Umax||150 V||150 V|
|Imax||?||multiplies by n/2|
|Price||about 20 Euros||304 Euro per 2 m|
Suggestions for improvement:
- Use textile tape instead of using normal adhesive tape
- Crimp the wire ends instead of soldering
|So the finished cables will look like.|
Cut the cable approximately 5 mm above a welded segment.
This allows better separating of the strands.
Fix the penultimate segment with a good adhesive tape (Tesa), make 2 wraps.
This prevents further fanning of the cable.
Separate all cores from each other.
To get a small inductance, you have to collect neighboring cores alternately to the later + - and - pole.
I bought a cable in which each second wire had white color. This simplified the task of sorting. All white wires are easily bent back. Later they will form the - pole.
The white wires were bound to a braid and the end was fixed with tape (later removed).
I sorted the colored wires by color so it looks nicer. For the electrical characteristics of the finished cable this is irrelevant.
Now we got a white braid for the later - pole and a colorful braid for the + pole.
All wires must now be stripped at the free end. Please test first if you have a suitable stripping tool, as with some cables the cores quickly crack.
In my case the cable was so sensitive that I had to melt the envelope with the candle flame method. This is best done as follows:
Rebuild the braid if necessary. The free strands are twisted together and soldered together only at the end.
Cutting off the end with a sharp forceps (shown at the white wire).
Electrical check of the cable. Check passage between the ends of the same color, and also that no short circuit exists between the two strands.
The twisted ends are now halfway bent, so that the end comes to lie in the range that will be protected by the shrink hose later.
Done and also visually appealing – a tail.
And this is the end result
Links to similar projects
Südwest-LS on krishu.de, he advises not to use wire but cable with solid copper core.
 "Effects of Cable, Loudspeaker, and Amplifier Interactions", J. Audio Eng. Soc., Vol. 39, No. 6, June 1991
The cheapest cable - 36 pole normal flat ribbon cable, interconnected as above - hit several high-end cables in the electrical values.